Cut and Sew

Chapter One – What is Cut and Sew?

Cut and sew is a process for the manufacture of a wide assortment of fabric products from dust collecting bags and tents to guitar covers and foam seats. The number and types of products are endless, making the cut and sew industry an extremely vital part of fabric product production and development.

The process begins with the submission of a pattern that is printed on fabric from which the product is made. It is imperative that the pattern be properly cut to match the edge to edge print of the design and color. Cut and sew is a design process that ensures the quality and accuracy of fabric products. Each item is carefully crafted and examined with close attention to detail to match the vision of the client, designer, and manufacturer.

The production model for cut and sew allows for more creativity. Printing directly onto the raw fabric eliminates the limitations created by seams and sizes. Additionally, color options are limitless since the process removes the restrictions of stock colors.

There are very few limitations to the types of products that can be produced using cut and sew since nearly every industry requires some form of cloth or fabric product as part of their manufacturing process. Regardless of the wide use of cut and sew, the industry is seldom recognized for its contributions to the success and quality of the many products it produces. .

The cut and sew industry works diligently to deliver thousands of top quality products at prices that allows their customers to be profitable and successful. Essentially, the cut and sew industry is the foundation of the production of nearly all of the products produced from cloth or various forms of fabrics.

Chapter Two – The Process for Cut and Sew

Cut and sew is a manufacturing process that works with creators to take their visions, plans, and designs and assist in mass producing them. Anyone who has an idea for producing a garment can contact cut and sew producers for assistance and guidance regarding how to take their creation and make it a reality.

Though this may seem to open the door to anyone who wants to have clothes mass produced, manufacturers use a filtering process to determine if what is being proposed is a viable idea, which cuts back on the number of approved concepts. In the majority of cases, the most common items that cut and sew producers receive are designs for articles of clothing, which is not the only thing that can be produced using cut and sew.

Hoodies, sweatshirts, t-shirts, jackets, dresses, and leggings are some of the most common items that are proposed by cut and sew manufacturing. Fortunately, cut and sew is not restricted to clothing and can be used to produce curtains, rugs, teddy bears, and other items. Anything that can be produced from fabric has the possibility of being made using cut and sew.

Cut and Sew Process

Pattern Design

There are several ways to create pattern designs to be used for digital printing. Some programs are Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, and Computer Aided Design (CAD). Regardless of the computer program, hand drawn patterns can be scanned into a computer at 300 dpi and are drawn using a thick dark marker for clarity and ease of manipulation.

The completed image is uploaded into a file that is accessible using Photoshop, a version of Photoshop, or one of the other programs. To change and adjust the image, the image needs to be layer rasterized and clarified. This step allows the designer to adjust and change the image.

The elements of the design are cut from the original scanned document and placed on a new layered background where the original background of the design is removed, leaving just the designs to have colors added. The colored elements are arranged with some of them being moved to the edge of the background to serve as the terminal elements. As the final step, the elements are spaced and placed to meet the desired creative pattern.

At the final step of design creation, the pattern is checked to see if it is seamless, resized to make it bigger than the size of the original design, and fixed to make it ready for printing. Most designers check the final rendering to be sure it meets the image they planned. Adjustments can be made by opening the saved file.

The steps in the design process are required to prepare an image to be digitally placed on the raw fabric. Though this example involved the creation of a pattern, the same method can be used to place a cut and sew pattern on cloth for creating a garment.

Finding a Sewing Manufacturer

Once the design has been completed, approved, revised, and edited, it is necessary to find a cut and sew manufacturer. As daunting and overwhelming as it may seem, the cut and sew industry is the best place to take a design and have it produced. Their purpose is to take a pattern, place it on fabric, cut the fabric, and sew the cut pieces into a garment.

There are an endless number of companies, from small independent ones to very large ones with multiple locations and facilities that are available. Cut and sew manufacturers focus on the production of garments by digitally placing patterns on fabric and do not do seamless knits, fashion knits, shoes, or purses.

The major benefit of cut and sew companies is their low minimum order quantities (MOQs), making it possible to produce any size order of a pattern. Companies starting in the garment industry are unable to accomplish their goals with high minimum cut and sew manufacturers that require a set quantity of an item to make production profitable.

When an order is submitted, there are three critical and essential areas of a cut and sew company that they have to traverse, which are fabric inspection, cutting, sewing, and quality checking and assurance.

• Fabric Inspection – Most fabrics are checked multiple times prior to being shipped. For quality reasons, it is essential that the fabric be inspected prior to being cut.
• Cutting – This is done for the sample run.
• Sewing – The cut pattern is sewn for inspection, evaluation, and assessment.
• Quality Check – In the initial stages of evaluating the viability of a garment, it is quality checked multiple times as well as assessed and discussed.

With the introduction of a new product, it is important to examine all of the potential cut and sew manufacturers carefully and patiently. There are several manufacturer listings that can offer guidance, knowledge, qualifications, and rankings of the available companies, some of which represent offshore manufacturers, which may be an issue regarding quality, on time delivery, and production delays.

Using a cut and sew producer is essential for building a clothing line to the correct specifications. There are certain aspects of the production process that cut and sew manufacturers can help with, which include:

• Complex and complicated patterns
• Design goals
• Special art deco pieces
• The creation of a fashion design from scratch

The beauty of working with the cut and sew industry is the ability to have creative freedom to imagine original and unique garments with the structure and manufacturing to produce them.

Although patterns can be submitted online, the path for completing a business arrangement is to make a personal contact with the cut and sew manufacturer to assess their reputation and the quality of their work.

Offshore

For many years, clothing and garments have been made offshore as a means of saving manufacturing costs. Offshore companies do not have to adhere to the labor regulations and requirements as specified by the United States Government. This allows them to produce large quantities of garments at extremely low costs to enhance the profits of the onshore company. This particular manufacturing model has been very successful for many years but has recently been losing its appeal as the quality of the work has declined and onshore companies as well as the United States Government have become concerned about the rights of offshore workers.

In the case of cut and sew manufacturing, the majority of cut and sew companies are onshore and in the United States. This has proven to be a major benefit for designers and fashion entrepreneurs. What has made onshore companies so attractive is their instant availability and experience in the market. Many of them have been in business for many years and have assisted in establishing very significant brands. This aspect alone has made them very attractive to experienced designers as well as those who are just starting out.

Regardless of the advent of the computer age and its ability to communicate with the world, it is impossible to remove the distance between designers and producers. A simple phone call or email may take hours or days to be answered restricting the necessary communication associated with the tech pack. Onshore companies are readily available and work exceptionally hard to ensure clear and concise communication. The focus of onshore cut and sew companies is to be a full service enterprise that offers full service under one roof.

As designers develop their products and have the dream of seeing it become a reality, they may be tempted to negotiate with an offshore company, or an onshore company that farms out work offshore. It is important for novices in the fashion industry to closely examine the advantages and disadvantages of offshore manufacturing before making a commitment. There are many factors involved, which can be detrimental to product development.

Digital Printing

The printing of the pattern on fabric has a huge effect on the final results of the cut and sew garment. There are several methods for printing on fabric, which include:

• Screen – for simple prints and is time consuming. Silk screen is an old method of printing that has been around for many years. It is used for DIY projects and professional high volume printing. In the 60s, many of the tie dye T-shirts were created using silk screen printing.
• Direct to Garment (DTG) – complicated designs are applied after the garment has been sewed.
• Digital – most efficient method and used for the majority of cut and sew pattern printing on raw fabric. The created design is uploaded into a computer and sent to a digital printer.

The digital printing process used for printing patterns on fabric is a process for printing digital computer files onto fabric using the ink jet method of printing. Two of the forms of digital printing are sublimation and direct. The technology for these methods is the same. The variation between them comes from the media that is fed into the printer and the processes used to prepare the fabric.

• Sublimation Digital Printing – A mirrored reflection of the digital file is printed on to specially coated paper. The printed image is transferred to polyester based fabric using heat and pressure, which is known as fusing. There are certain limitations to the use of sublimation digital printing.
• Direct Digital Printing – A coating is applied to the fabric before printing, which is known as padding and helps the dyes penetrate the fabric. The fabric is placed on the printer belt and held in place by a sticky substance on the belt that feeds the fabric into the printer. As the fabric exits the printer, it is heat dried.

After printing, the fabric is steamed, washed, dried, and ironed, a process that is adjusted to fit the needs of individual fabrics.

Cutting Process

The cutting process is a major step in the completion of a garment and is the way the pieces of a garment are cut from the fabric. It is completed in two phases, which begins with rough cutting where the individual pieces of the garment are separated from the fabric. The second phase is to accurately cut the shapes with precision and detail to match the dimensions of the garment. For cutting to be successful, the cuts must have clean edges, unscorched and infused.

There are three methods for cutting: manual using scissors, powered knife, or computerized and automatic using a powered knife. In the cut and sew industry, manufacturers have standard operating procedures (SOPs) for the cutting process due to its importance and critical nature.

Leading Manufacturers and Suppliers

Chapter Three – Types of Sewing Machines

There are several types of sewing machines for the cut and sew industry. Each of the various configurations are robust, power driven, and capable of running at very high speeds. Industrial sewing machines are categorized by the seams they make and their stitch class.

• Lock Stitch Machines– Lock stitch machines have a single needle and bobbin and are used to join two or multiple fabrics. They can be used for different weights of sewing.

  

  
  
• Overlock Machines– Overlock machines have three, four, or five threads and can form a wide variety of stitches. They are used for serging garment panels such as pockets and over edge stitching. Over lock sewing machines are seldom used with cut and sew manufacturing and are mainly used with knitted garments for overedge stitching. For cut and sew manufacturing, they are widely used in the sewing of T-shirts.

  

  
  
• Flatlock Sewing Machines – Flatlock sewing machines have two or three needles with needles passing threads through the material to interloop with a looper thread to set the stitch of a seam. They are used to hem sleeves and for decorative purposes.

  

  
  
• Feed Off the Arm Machine– Feed off the arm sewing machines are used to make flat and felt seams using two needle threads to form chain stitches. They are used to sew shirt side seams, underarm seams, and jean inseams.

  

  
  
• Button Hole and Attaching – Button hole and attaching sewing machines are specialized machines for attaching buttons and creating button holes. The button attaching machine is configured to be able to attach any size button while the button hole machine can use several different styles of stitching.

  

  
  
• Bartack Machine – A bartack machine creates a stitch to reinforce seams and attached components on a garment, such as belt loops and the bottom side of a pocket opening.

  

  
  
• Zigzag Stitching – Many different types of garments require zigzag stitching such as jackets. A zigzag sewing machine is capable of producing a wide range of zigzag patterns and stitches as can be seen in the example below.

  

  
  

The efficiency of the cut and sew manufacturing process makes it possible to create and produce complex designs quickly using a computer rendered design. This advanced method of clothing manufacturing opens the world of design to a wide range of creative and innovative people.

Chapter Four– The Benefits of Cut and Sew Manufacturing

The cut and sew process of garment manufacturing has greatly enhanced the production methods for the clothing industry by eliminating the need for patterns when building a new brand or unique clothing designs. It provides a less restrictive and more creative method for producing high quality and fashionable clothing.

The main benefit of cut and sew manufacturing is the increased amount of control that is available over every step of the process from design creation, to printing, cutting, sewing, and completion. Instead of relying on premade garments that have to be adjusted. Cut and sew allows designers to produce their own, original creations efficiently and effectively.

Cut and Sew Manufacturing Benefits

The fashion industry is being overtaken by the benefits of cut and sew manufacturing since it provides a platform for independent designers of many backgrounds to present and create their designs.

Planning Benefit

When a designer works with a cut and sew company, they receive the benefits of years of experience that can assist in adjusting the details of a product to fit the parameters of the manufacturing process. If a design is a conceptualization, an experienced cut and sew company can work with the rudiments of the vision and help perfect it for production.

Cut and Sew Tech Pack

A tech pack or technical packet is a blueprint for a clothing brand. Included in the tech pack are all of the specifications for guiding clothing manufacturers in their initial steps in developing a clothing line. They allow the designer to observe, modify, and oversee the progress of their product through each phase of the production process.

The measurements, patterns, and technical details of the tech pack help workers, supervisors, and managers take technical specifications and transform them into tangible and marketable garments. Essentially, the tech pack becomes a point of discussion and communication to assist in avoiding errors and misconceptions.

In the progression of a garment from conception to final product, it is handled multiple times by an assortment of workers, developers, and managers. In order for the original design to be able to maintain its initial form and integrity, there has to be a manual or SOP to keep each element consistent and on target. That is the function of the tech pack to serve as a guide and set of rules.

Included in the tech pack are:

• CAD or Photoshop design
• Technical drawings
• Order details
• Production timelines
• Measurements
• Colors
• Prints
• Labels
• Materials
• Trim
• Fabric

The depth of the contents of the tech pack is dependent on the experience of the cut and sew manufacturer, which should have been assessed during the manufacturer selection process.

Cut and Sew Professionals

Cut and sew manufacturers have the experience and know how to assist new designers in making their ideas a reality. This aspect of cut and sew manufacturing can assist in the successful development, creation, and production of a garment’s design. In essence, it is choosing the right people for the job, a fundamental element for a successful business.

The determination of the professionalism of a cut and sew manufacturer is based on the successes they have had in the past where they have helped new designers put their products on the market. This can easily be seen by how the company presents themselves and supports their clients.

Minimum Order Quantities (MOQs)

The struggle for most new designers is finding a company that is willing to produce a limited quantity of a design since many large producers will only produce high volume runs. Cut and sew manufacturers are willing to work with any individuals who have an idea, with certain restrictions.

With low MOQs, the production of a new line of clothing becomes more manageable, allowing time for adjustments and corrections. When there are issues during production, they can be dealt with and corrected.

Manufacturer Service and Guidance

Cut and sew manufacturers take a great deal of pride in the service and guidance that they provide for their clients. In many ways, the association between the designer and cut and sew manufacturer becomes a partnership built on trust and confidence with each member of the partnership having an equal say.

Outsourcing Cut and Sew

There is a distinct difference between a cut and sew operation and a sew factory. With a sew factory, the responsibility for all aspects of the tech pack is on the shoulders of the designer. They are required to do all of the duties listed in the tech pack and have them prepared for the factory sewing production line.

Cut and sew operations take the opposite tactic and provide all of the services and support, including finding outsourcing for long production runs. This aspect of cut and sew manufacturing is what differentiates it from other forms of clothing production.

Chapter Five– Choosing a Cut and Sew Manufacturer

Certain key elements have to be examined when choosing a cut and sew manufacturer. A critical part of the process is to look at the resume of several cut and sew manufacturers before making a choice. When a designer has worked on their vision for an extended period of time, it can be disheartening and frustrating to work through the many cut and sew companies. As insurmountable as this may seem, it is the most important step in the process of making a dream a reality.

How to Choose a Cut and Sew Manufacturer

Cut and Sew Cost

A full service cut and sew manufacturer has the template and organization to help a designer realize their dream. Every part of the production process from assistance with the details of the design to the completion of a garment is facilitated by a full service cut and sew company under one umbrella. The designer pays a flat rate for services and only needs to be concerned about monitoring the process.

The streamline of this method makes it possible to control costs and keep them to a minimum. In some cases, it may be tempting to choose a low priced replica of a full service cut and sew company. The results of such a choice can be an inferior and poor quality final product.

Production Size

Companies that specialize in cut and sew production are willing to produce any batch size of a design. Many garment manufacturers will not work with quantities that are below their minimum due to production and equipment costs. This is not true for cut and sew professionals who are built and designed for any form of production run.

Knowledge and Experience of a Cut and Sew Company

Of all of the important factors regarding the choice of a cut and sew company, knowledge, expertise, and experience are foundational and essential. As the old adages have said for many years, there isn’t any replacement for experience. This is something that can be easily checked and verified on a company’s web page, which should have a list of their successful and satisfied customers.

What can be enlightening and surprising is the number of successful brands that started their operations using cut and sew services. These same companies that have helped popular and well known designers reach their success are open to novices seeking their first experience. It is the nature of the cut and sew business.

Conclusion

• Cut and sew is a process for manufacturing clothing where the design and pattern are printed on the raw cloth from which the garment is cut, ensuring full color, edge to edge print of the design and color. It is a design process where the garment is printed before it is made to produce higher quality garments since each item is carefully crafted by hand.
• The production model for cut and sew allows for more creativity. Printing directly onto the raw fabric eliminates the limitations created by seams and sizes. Additionally, color options are limitless since the process removes the restrictions of stock colors.
• Cut and sew is a manufacturing process that works with creators to take their visions, plans, and designs and assist in mass producing them. Anyone who has an idea for producing a garment can contact cut and sew producers for assistance and guidance regarding how to take their creation and make it a reality.
• The cut and sew process of garment manufacturing has greatly enhanced the production methods for the clothing industry by eliminating the need for patterns when building a new brand or unique clothing designs. It provides a less restrictive and more creative method for producing high quality and fashionable clothing.

Leading Manufacturers and Suppliers